Edinburgh enchants first-time visitors with its effortless old-world elegance. Its UNESCO-listed historic centre is a beguiling maze of winding alleys, the skyline dominated by the regal crown steeple of St Giles Cathedral and the imposing turrets of Edinburgh Castle. But scratch beneath this grandiose and historical surface and you'll discover a down-to-earth, modern capital city. Edinburgh is packed with laid-back bars,...
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